Golden Hour Itinerary: Eden

“It happened in only one place in the world and it will never happen again.” Tom Mead, Killers of Eden.*

When you stand on a headland of Twofold Bay in spring, you’re standing on hallowed ground.  Mead writes of the killer whales of Eden, a pod of wild Orca gladiator who rendezvous with one local family each June to hunt whales in Twofold Bay. Neither could have hunted successfully without the other, and it was an pact that lasted for 100 years.

These Eden gems are places where people gathered to watch the chase, from as early as the 1830. You have a good chance of spotting whales, and also of being the only one there to see them. Sound like it’s too good to be true? Welcome to spring on the Sapphire Coast.

Dawn at Aslings Beach Rock Pool. Photo by Jewelzee.

Dawn at Aslings Beach Rockpool

If you hit the beach at first light you’ll easily make it to the rock pool by sun-up. Aslings is Eden’s main beach, and it’s easy to spend a few hours exploring here. The rock pool is the obvious choice, but if you want to avoid rock hopping and dodging some waves then head to Lake Curalo at the northern end of the beach, or simply settle somewhere along foreshore, there is plenty of parking and picnic tables.

There are full amenities at both ends of the beach, along with the Eden Boardwalk which travels the full length of the beach and around Lake Curalo.

Wharfside Cafe.

Breakfast by the sea

Visit the eateries at Snug Cove, or head up the hill to Imlay Street where Sprout Eden features local produce on the menu and wholesale. Several eateries are open to cater for dawn risers, and you’ll find a sunny spot at Cuppaz Cafe, or Rusty Plough is a busy diner on Princes Highway.

Snug Cove, Eden. Credit: Scott Walton.

Dusk at Snug Cove or Marine Rescue

There are ‘two folds” to the world’s third deepest natural harbour and these two places are at the heart of their centre. Snug Cove is a fishing port and has three wharves and rocky shorelines to perch on.

If you prefer more nature views in your sunset head up the hill to the Eden Lookout and Marine Rescue. Park in Bramble Street and follow the footpath under the whispering pine trees to one of the little tables and get ready for the show. You won’t be disappointed by the panoramic views to the southern headland, and east to sea.

Sundowners at Snug Cove

There’s no better place to celebrate a sunset with a beverage than at Drift Bar & Restaurant (unless you are outdoors of course!). It’s elevated views of Snug Cove and the Eden Wharf are bested only by the tapas and share plates on offer.


Heading to Bermagui? See the Golden Hour Itinerary for Bermagui here.

  • “Killers of Eden: The killer Whales of Twofold Bay” Tom Mead, 2008.
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